Surfing

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  • Happiness
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  • Philosophy

    Surfing

    Surfing

     

     

    Stop struggling!

    What do you mean?

    Find the center of the board.

    Hips back.

    Head up and look straight ahead.

    Much better.

    Do you feel it?

    I think so.

    Move yourself until you find the center of the board.

    All right, how’s this?

    You’ll know when you get there.

    I think I’m there; I’m not shaking all around.

    Yes, much better. I can tell.

    Now about the sea.

    Yes, what about it?

    If you want to learn how to surf, you must understand this one thing.

    Yes?

    The ocean is always changing.

    You can’t predict what it will do.

    You must adjust your self to the way the waves are moving.

    Stay in the center of your board, be calm and ready.

    If you want to surf.

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    mamasan commented on Surfing

    12-10-2009

    Ah, I would never have the nerve to surf even though I loved to swim and dive and I did a lot of that when I was thirteen at Graham and woods and Midland Beach. that is where I punctured an ear drum but you couldn't keep me away.....I must have been a fish long ago. Thanks for the memory even though I didn't surf on the waves....I now surf in another medium which I think is going to be turned in to a war too...war war everywhere war..........
    Reply to Comment

    Rhymer commented on Surfing

    11-22-2009

    Never tried surfing, snow and water skied but totally different thing. You describe it so well I would like to give it a try.
    Reply to Comment

    Tempestlady commented on Surfing

    11-22-2009

    Makes sense, I myself have never had the opportunity to try it. Loved the educational conversational style. Very "in the moment" Write on......
    Reply to Comment

    jamalajason2006 commented on Surfing

    10-16-2009

    SO VERY TRUE LOVE THIS JUST KEEP UR SELF IN THE CENTER AND U WILL BE OK
    Reply to Comment

    Musicmynded1 commented on Surfing

    10-07-2009

    thankx, grew up on venice beach, and with 15 older brothers and sisters only my oldest brother was the only one to know how to surf,,,, now a thousand years later, I am determined to take lessons and do this (prompted also by my wife) who wouldn't mind learning. great poem.:)
    Reply to Comment

    If I feel physically as if the top of my head were taken off, I know that is poetry.

    Emily Dickinson (1830-1886) American poet.

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