Surfing
 
If you want to surf,
Stop struggling!
What do you mean?
Find the center of the board.
Hips back.
Head up, look straight ahead.
Much better.
Do you feel it?
I think so.
Move yourself until you find the center.
Alright, how’s this?
You’ll know when you get there.
I think I’m there; I’m not shaking all around.
Yes, much better. I can tell.
Now, about the sea.
Yes, what about it?
If you want to learn how to surf, you must understand this one
thing.
Yes?
The ocean is always changing.
You can’t predict what it will do.
You must adjust yourself to the way the waves are moving.
Stay in the center of your board, be calm and ready,
If you want to surf.

Laguna Beach , California
March, 2007
copyright 2007 poetography